How do I measure my knitting gauge?

Knit a flat swatch larger than the measurement area, block it as you will the finished project, then measure a central 10 cm or 4 inch square. Count full stitches and rows inside that area and divide by the length to get stitches or rows per cm or inch.

What if my gauge doesn’t match the pattern?

If you have too many stitches per 10 cm/4 in, your gauge is too tight – go up a needle size. If you have too few stitches, your gauge is too loose – go down a needle size. You can also adjust stitch counts using a gauge calculator, but changing needle size is usually safer.

Can I use a different yarn weight if my gauge is different?

Yes, but you must check gauge and adjust. If your yarn gives a different stitches-per-10 cm than the pattern, you may need to change needle size, knit a different pattern size, or recalculate stitch counts for key measurements like bust or circumference.

Should I measure gauge over 10 cm or 4 inches?

Both are common. Measuring over a larger area (10 cm or 4 in) averages out small variations and is more accurate than counting over 1 inch or 2.5 cm. This calculator lets you enter either and converts to stitches and rows per cm or inch.

Knitting Gauge Calculator

Knitting & Crochet • Gauge & Sizing

Enter your swatch measurements and pattern gauge to instantly convert stitches and rows, adjust stitch counts, and plan yarn substitutions.

1. Calculate gauge from your swatch

Measure a central area of your swatch (after blocking) and enter the number of stitches and rows in that area.

Measured width

Stitches across that width

Measured height

Rows in that height

What is knitting gauge and why does it matter?

Knitting gauge is the number of stitches and rows you get per unit of length, usually measured over 10 cm or 4 inches. A typical pattern might say:

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm (4") in stockinette stitch, after blocking

If your gauge is tighter (more stitches per 10 cm), your project will come out smaller. If your gauge is looser (fewer stitches per 10 cm), your project will be larger. Matching gauge is essential for garments, socks, and anything that needs to fit.

How to measure your knitting gauge correctly

Knit a swatch in the same stitch pattern as the gauge in the pattern (often stockinette).
Make it bigger than the measurement area – at least 12–15 cm (5–6") square.
Block the swatch exactly as you will treat the finished item (wash, pin, dry).
Measure a central area:
- Place a ruler or gauge tool at least 1–2 cm from the edges.
- Count how many full stitches fit in 10 cm or 4".
- Count how many rows fit in 10 cm or 4".
Calculate stitches per cm/inch by dividing:

Stitches per cm = (stitches in 10 cm) ÷ 10

Stitches per inch = (stitches in 4") ÷ 4

Gauge formulas used in this calculator

1. Gauge from swatch

Given a measured width \(W\) and stitches counted \(S\):

Stitches per unit = \( S / W \)

Stitches per 10 cm = \( (S / W) \times 10 \)

Stitches per 4 in = \( (S / W) \times 4 \)

The same formulas apply for rows using height and row counts.

2. Adjusting stitch and row counts

Suppose the pattern gauge is \(G_p\) stitches per 10 cm and your gauge is \(G_y\) stitches per 10 cm. For a pattern stitch count \(N_p\), the physical width is:

Pattern width = \( N_p / G_p \times 10 \) cm

To get the same width at your gauge, you need a stitch count \(N_y\) such that:

\( N_y / G_y = N_p / G_p \)

So \( N_y = N_p \times (G_y / G_p) \)

The calculator uses this relationship for both stitches and rows.

3. Yarn / size substitution

If you know your stitches per cm (or inch) and a target finished width \(W_t\), the stitches needed are:

Stitches needed = gauge (sts per unit) × \( W_t \)

Conversely, if you know a stitch count \(N\) and your gauge, the resulting width is:

Width = \( N / \text{gauge} \)

Practical tips for fixing gauge issues

Too many stitches per 10 cm (too tight): go up a needle size (or two) and swatch again.
Too few stitches per 10 cm (too loose): go down a needle size.
Row gauge off but stitch gauge correct: often acceptable. You can adjust lengths by knitting more or fewer rows to measurements.
Yarn substitution: always swatch. Yarn weight labels (DK, worsted, etc.) are only a starting point.
Pattern repeats: when adjusting stitch counts, make sure your new number is compatible with the pattern repeat (e.g. multiple of 6 + 2 edge stitches).

Frequently asked questions

Do I really have to knit a gauge swatch?

For items where size matters (sweaters, socks, hats, fitted garments), yes. A small swatch takes less time than knitting an entire project that doesn’t fit. For simple scarves or blankets where exact size isn’t critical, you can be more relaxed.

Should I measure gauge before or after blocking?

Always measure after blocking, using the same method you’ll use for the finished item. Many yarns relax and grow when washed; if you only measure unblocked gauge, your finished project may end up larger than expected.

What if my stitch gauge matches but row gauge doesn’t?

This is very common. Most knitters prioritize matching stitch gauge for width and circumference. Row gauge affects length, which you can usually adjust by knitting to a measurement (e.g. “knit until work measures 40 cm”) instead of a fixed row count.

Can I use this calculator for crochet gauge?

Yes. The math for stitches and rows per cm/inch is the same for crochet. Just be sure to swatch in the same stitch pattern (e.g. double crochet, half double crochet) that the pattern uses.

Knitting Gauge Calculator

1. Calculate gauge from your swatch

Your gauge

2. Adjust stitch and row counts to your gauge

Pattern gauge