How do I calculate bike cadence from speed?

To calculate cadence from speed you need your speed, wheel circumference and gear ratio. First convert speed to wheel revolutions per minute, then multiply by the gear ratio (front teeth ÷ rear teeth). The formula is: Cadence (RPM) = Speed (m/s) ÷ Wheel circumference (m) × 60 × (Front teeth ÷ Rear teeth). The calculator on this page does this automatically for you in km/h or mph.

Is higher cadence always better?

No. Very high cadences (100–120+ RPM) reduce muscular load but increase cardiovascular strain and can be inefficient for many riders. Very low cadences (below ~60 RPM) put a lot of torque on your joints and muscles and can cause fatigue or knee pain. Most riders are most efficient somewhere between 75 and 95 RPM. Elite riders often train to handle higher cadences, but you should aim for the range that feels smooth and sustainable for your fitness and terrain.

Do I need a cadence sensor?

A cadence sensor is not strictly necessary, but it makes training with cadence much easier and more accurate. Without a sensor you can estimate cadence by counting pedal strokes for 15 seconds and multiplying by 4. A sensor, however, gives continuous real-time data, lets you set cadence alerts on your bike computer or watch, and makes it easier to do structured cadence drills.

How can I improve my cycling cadence?

You can improve cadence with specific drills: 1) High-cadence spins: 3–5 minutes at 100–110 RPM in an easy gear with good form, 2–3 times per ride. 2) Cadence pyramids: gradually increase cadence every minute, then decrease. 3) Single-leg drills on a trainer to smooth out your pedal stroke. Combine these with regular endurance rides where you consciously hold your target cadence range. Start with short intervals and build up as your neuromuscular coordination improves.

Bike Cadence Calculator – RPM, Speed & Gear Ratio Tool

Q: What is a good bike cadence?

For most road cyclists, a good cadence on flat terrain is typically 80–95 RPM. Time triallists and triathletes may ride slightly lower (75–90 RPM) to keep heart rate down, while climbers often spin 85–100 RPM on long climbs. Recreational riders might naturally sit around 70–85 RPM. There is no single perfect number—your best cadence is the range where you can produce power efficiently without your heart rate or muscles fatiguing too quickly.

Cadence (RPM)	Speed
Click "Generate table" to see speeds for a range of cadences.

What is bike cadence?

Bike cadence is the number of pedal revolutions you make per minute (RPM). If your right foot passes the bottom of the pedal stroke 90 times in one minute, your cadence is 90 RPM.

Cadence is a key variable in cycling performance. It affects how much stress you put on your muscles and joints versus your cardiovascular system, and it strongly influences how sustainable a given power output feels.

Typical cadence ranges

Recreational riders: 70–85 RPM
Trained road cyclists: 80–95 RPM on flat terrain
Time trial / triathlon: 75–90 RPM to balance power and aerodynamics
Climbing: 80–100 RPM if gearing allows
MTB / technical terrain: highly variable, often 60–100 RPM

There is no single “perfect” cadence. Your optimal range depends on fitness, muscle fiber type, terrain, and bike gearing. The calculator above helps you understand what cadence you are actually riding at for a given speed and gear.

How the bike cadence calculator works

The relationship between speed, cadence, wheel size, and gear ratio is purely mechanical. Once you know any three of these, you can calculate the fourth.

Step 1 – Wheel revolutions from speed

Let:

\( v \) = bike speed (m/s)
\( C \) = wheel circumference (m)

Then wheel revolutions per second are:

\( \text{Wheel rev/s} = \dfrac{v}{C} \)

and wheel revolutions per minute:

\( \text{Wheel RPM} = \dfrac{v}{C} \times 60 \)

Step 2 – Gear ratio

Let:

\( T_f \) = number of teeth on the front chainring
\( T_r \) = number of teeth on the rear sprocket

Gear ratio:

\( G = \dfrac{T_f}{T_r} \)

Each pedal revolution turns the rear wheel \( G \) times.

Step 3 – Cadence from speed

Cadence (pedal RPM) is wheel RPM divided by gear ratio:

\( \text{Cadence (RPM)} = \dfrac{\text{Wheel RPM}}{G} = \dfrac{v}{C} \times 60 \times \dfrac{T_r}{T_f} \)

When you enter speed in km/h or mph, the calculator converts it to m/s internally and applies this formula.

Step 4 – Speed from cadence

Rear wheel RPM is cadence multiplied by gear ratio:

\( \text{Wheel RPM} = \text{Cadence} \times G \)

Speed in m/s:

\( v = \text{Wheel RPM} \times \dfrac{C}{60} = \text{Cadence} \times G \times \dfrac{C}{60} \)

The calculator then converts \( v \) to km/h or mph.

What is a “good” bike cadence?

Research on elite cyclists suggests that they often prefer cadences around 90–100 RPM during time trials and road racing, even if slightly lower cadences might be marginally more energy-efficient in the lab. The reason is that higher cadences reduce peak pedal forces, which can delay muscular fatigue and make it easier to respond to attacks or accelerations.

For most riders:

Below 60 RPM: very “grindy” – high joint and muscle stress, often uncomfortable on long rides.
60–75 RPM: common on steep climbs or for beginners with limited gearing.
75–95 RPM: sweet spot for many road cyclists on flat to rolling terrain.
95–110+ RPM: high cadence; useful for short efforts and drills, but hard to sustain for long periods unless well-trained.

Cadence zones (approximate)

Recovery / easy spin: 85–95 RPM in a light gear.
Endurance riding: 80–95 RPM, depending on terrain and personal preference.
Tempo / threshold: 85–100 RPM for many trained riders.
Neuromuscular drills: 100–120 RPM in very easy gear, focusing on smoothness.

How to measure your cadence without a sensor

Choose a steady section of road or a trainer where you can hold a constant speed.
Start a timer and count every time your right foot reaches the top of the pedal stroke.
Count for 15 seconds, then multiply by 4 to get RPM.
Repeat a few times and average the results.

This is less precise than a dedicated cadence sensor, but it’s good enough to calibrate your feeling for different cadence ranges.

How to improve your cycling cadence

Cadence is largely a neuromuscular skill: you are training your nervous system to fire muscles in a smooth, coordinated pattern at higher speeds. The following drills are commonly used by coaches:

High-cadence spin-ups: In an easy gear, gradually increase cadence to 100–110 RPM for 30–60 seconds, then recover. Focus on a quiet upper body and smooth pedal stroke.
Cadence intervals: Alternate 2–3 minutes at your normal cadence with 1–2 minutes 10–15 RPM higher, at the same power or perceived effort.
Single-leg drills (on a trainer): Unclip one foot and pedal with the other for 20–30 seconds, then switch. This exposes dead spots in your stroke and encourages smoother pedaling.

Use the calculator to plan what speed you should see on your bike computer for a target cadence in a given gear. That way you can hit your cadence targets even if your bike doesn’t have a cadence sensor.

Road vs. gravel vs. MTB cadence

Terrain and bike type influence your natural cadence:

Road: smoother surfaces and tighter gearing make it easier to hold a narrow cadence range (e.g., 85–95 RPM).
Gravel: rolling resistance and variable gradients often lead to more fluctuation; many riders sit around 80–90 RPM.
MTB: technical sections, short steep climbs, and frequent coasting mean cadence can swing from 0 to 120+ RPM. Having a wide-range cassette helps you avoid grinding too low.

Whatever you ride, the key is to avoid being “stuck” in a cadence that feels choppy or forces you to mash the pedals. Use your gears to keep cadence in a comfortable, sustainable range.

Bike Cadence Calculator

Bike setup

Cadence from speed

Speed from cadence

Gear & cadence speed table